Iceland

November 11-18, 2017

By Heather Horgen

Iceland is on a different scale - windier, bigger, more furry. Even the spelling is on a whole other level (Kirkjubæjarklaustur anyone?). The nature is impressive. It's definitely in the top most beautiful places I've ever seen. This was our week in Iceland.

to vik

After one night in Reykjavik, we fit 6 people and our luggage into our Toyota Land Cruiser and set out to Vik, about 116 miles East on the South Coast, with plans to stop where we wanted on the way. I was so excited to see the furry horses, and there were so many! We pulled over to see a herd up close, but not close enough to pet.

When we came up on Seljalandsfoss there was no question that we'd stop. You can see the waterfalls cascading down the cliffs from far down the road. The main waterfall is nearly 200 feet high, and it is impossible to capture it in photos.

Don't let the green(ish) grass fool you. The temperature was right around freezing and there was ice everywhere from the mist of the waterfalls. I didn't think I'd need crampons because we weren't planning on any hiking, but I wish I had some. Actually, it was icy everywhere we went, even the sidewalks in Reykjavik.

There are sheep everywhere! Big woolly sheep. We pulled over to see some up close, and the whole herd came running across the road in front of our car.

Skogafoss was our second stop. Another impressive waterfall, next to picturesque farms with herds of woolly sheep. How can you live in this place and not be overwhelmed with the beauty every time you step out your front door?

a good name

Checking into the Icelandair Hotel in Vik, the front desk staff said "Horgen, that's a good name. I'll give you the best room." Was not disappointed.

Our room had the most amazing view out to the ocean and the cliffs of Reynisdrangar.

Vik is a small town, but there's plenty to see. After lunch, we drove down a gravel road to the black sand beach and walked out over the boulders. We looked out to the ocean; we saw the basalt sea stacks of Reynisdrangar; we looked at the church on the hill, dwarfed by the mountains and the clouds in the sky.

fjaðrárgljúfur

The next morning we drove further East along the South Coast. Our first stop was Fjaðrárgljúfur, a canyon formed during the Ice Age 2 million years ago. I had just read Neil Gaiman's Norse Mythology, and I could not help but think that Iceland really is Asgard.

There are so many different landscapes in Iceland. Driving further from Vik we passed grassy fields with sheep, then snow covered fields, then rocky lava plains, mountains, glaciers, and at the same time the weather was going from rain to sun to snow to clouds, all in an hour.

Every direction you look is a spectacular view. I wasn't prepared for just how much there was to see. One thing I like about traveling is experiencing a different culture - different food, language, a different way of living. Iceland didn't feel much different from home, but I've never seen anything like it before.

Jökulsárlón

Two hours later and we made it to Jökulsárlón, the lake where ice breaks off the glaciers and floats into the lake. We also saw seals swimming in the harbor!

Also, Sigur Rós is a perfect soundtrack for Iceland.

"They heard a distant rumbling, like thunder on the peaks, or mountains crumbling, or huge waves crashing to shore, and the earth shook with each rumble. “My husband is coming home,” said the giantess. “I hear his gentle footsteps in the distance."

Neil Gaiman, Norse Mythology

reynisfjara

The day we left Vik it was raining and windy, but we still hadn't seen Reynisfjara, the black sand beach with powerful waves.

reykjavik

Reykjavik is quaint. But vibrant and modern. We stayed at an Airbnb on the main street, and had bakeries, coffee, restaurants, shops, and bookstores all within a few minutes walk.

We had Thai noodle soup, browsed records, drank lattes, and ate the famous Icelandic hotdogs. A common thread everywhere we went was quality and personality; There was a lot of art and purposeful design.

cozy

I think I know why everyone in Iceland is so happy. Aside from healthcare and literacy and all that good stuff, people are warm! The geothermal heating system keeps homes and businesses toasty, and there are public hot springs everywhere. Even our Airbnb, in an old building, had heated floors.

Like I've said, everything in Iceland is on another scale. Just look at Hallgrímskirkja, the church, and the Sun Voyager sculpture by the harbor.

takk

Thank you, Iceland, for your hospitality. For the good weather that allowed us to drive for 600 miles of sightseeing. For the studded tires on our rental car. For making us laugh. For keeping us warm. Thank you for a great trip with family!