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Vietnam: the middle

By Heather Horgen

Hoi An

On the fourth day we flew to central Vietnam to spend a few days in the coastal town of Hoi An. The non-stop construction of 5-star beach resorts along the coast was impressive. The hotel we stayed at was brand new. In 5 years, Vietnam will not be the same.

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We checked in at the River Town Hotel and were told to sit down and relax. Then they brought us fresh fruit juice and snacks. Time to slow down. For about $60/night you too can stay at this brand new hotel and enjoy the two pools, spacious rooms, and immaculate attention to detail.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

Hoi An is a sleepy town, but there are certain areas that come to life, especially after the blazing sun goes down. We went to the night market, where the streets are closed and vendors sell souvenirs and sandals. We ate at our first "street" restaurant, which we were all nervous about, and it was fine! We walked along the river where vendors set up plastic stools and tables for all the young people that come to hang out, drink beer, and eat snacks. We ate ice cream at a small cafe. And - we got to know Kim-An and Hoang-An better.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

We really enjoyed the breakfast here too! Fresh fruit, dim sum, eggs, soups, bread, pastries, fresh juice.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

To the beach! We spent almost the whole day at Hidden Beach, unwinding from the busy first part of our trip. We had beach-chair service and ordered food and drinks. We watched the boats go by on the ocean, we wandered down the shoreline. It was interesting to see the fishing boats on shore; round boats with homemade propellers and lights.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

Van and I decided that we're going to buy a house on the beach and get a cute little Vietnamese dog.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

For dinner we searched Google maps and found a good looking place called Bale Well restaurant. After walking down a long alley we get to the place, which is all outdoors, and get seated. Right away waiters start bringing out food - plates of grilled meat, egg rolls, banh xeo, fresh herbs and dipping sauces. We didn't know what was happening! Turns out, it was one of the best meals we had in Vietnam. We weren't sure what to do with everything though... so we had the waitress show us; first banh xeo, then fill it with kimchi, herbs, meat or egg roll, and wrap it all in rice paper. Watch the video to see how everyone liked it:

In the morning we wandered around the main town where we found a chill hipster cafe with good coffee and a Walter White mural.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

And then we went to see the Banh Mi Queen. When someone is called the "Banh Mi Queen," you go to see her.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

We spent a lot of time enjoying the slower pace of Hoi An. I sat on our balcony and read the New Yorker's profile of Anthony Bourdain. In the evening we sat by the pool and drank whiskey. My Mom and Hoang-Anh even went to church together. One afternoon Tom and my Dad decided to take the hotel bikes across the bridge and back; and that's where my Dad lost his hat!

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

And after three beautiful sunny days in Hoi An, we headed onward to Hanoi. I think we were all sad to leave, but excited to have more adventures in the North.

For Relaxing Times

For Relaxing Times

© 2026 Heather Horgen

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